In the modern interior, the direction on the use of natural materials is actively developing. The ceiling of the boards allows not only beautifully stylize the room for a retro style, but also fills the habitation of concrete with the warmth of a warm wooden house. There are different ways of installing such a ceiling, in which both processed lumber and unedged board can be used. How to sew a ceiling board, will be told further.
The disadvantages and advantages of a wooden ceiling
The ceiling of the wooden boards has its positive qualities and disadvantages.
Cons of wooden ceilings:
- If in the house or non-residential premises where the ceiling of such a structure is installed, the humidity of the air exceeds the norm, then deformation of the material is possible.
- Quality sawnwood is much more expensive than synthetic finishing materials, so for a large surface area, a ceiling file will cost a round sum.
- Sharp changes in temperature can also lead to deformation of the ceiling board.
- Low fire safety.
Pluses of the ceiling made of wood:
- It has excellent sound and thermal insulation.
- You can install it yourself.
- Has high strength.
- Has an attractive appearance.
- Environmental Safety.
- Aesthetic look.
The positive qualities are much greater than the disadvantages that can be successfully dealt with by processing the material with special compounds that protect natural wood from destruction and deformation.
Installation of a wooden ceiling
One of the most common materials that are used for lining the ceiling is a board-lining. The ceiling of this material has high aesthetic values, and the cost of sawn timber will be significantly lower in comparison with the parquet board.
Installation of the board-lining is carried out in several stages:
- Substrate preparation.
- Ceiling marking.
- Mounting the frame.
- Fastening of lining.
Each step must be carried out in accordance with the technical requirements for the installation of wooden cover.
If the wooden ceiling of the edging board is installed on a concrete base, the surface must be thoroughly cleaned before proceeding with the installation work. If there is an old finish, it needs to be dismantled, and if there are cracks on the surface of the base, make a ceiling putty.
Aligned and cleaned from dirt and dust, the surface must be treated with antiseptic compounds. Such treatment allows to prevent damage to wood by various bacteria and fungi.
Correct marking of the ceiling surface allows to make the ceiling perfectly smooth. The marking is carried out with the help of a building level and a painting paint line, which is installed in perfectly even parallel lines at a distance of up to 10 cm from the concrete floor.
Finishing the ceiling lining is carried out using metal or wooden profiles, which are installed along the lines of marking. The optimum distance between the profiles for finishing the ceiling of the board is 30 cm. This arrangement of the frame completely excludes the sagging of the finishing material. Fastening to the base is carried out with the help of dowels or screws.
Regardless of the humidity level in the room, it is recommended to use a galvanized metal profile, and when installing wooden supporting structures, the material must necessarily be treated with antiseptics.
The installation of the lining can be carried out in many ways, but the most aesthetic and practical way is to use special staple clamps that are attached to the underside of the board and the battens.
The installation of the lining starts from one of the corners of the ceiling. When installing a wooden ceiling, it is necessary to leave a technological gap between the extreme board and the wall, which should be about 10 mm.
The first board of the ceiling is installed with the help of a furniture stapler, the next one is fixed in the grooves of the previous one and fixed to the battens with the help of bracket-clayers. In this way, the entire ceiling is sewn, while not forgetting the location of the fixtures and installing the wiring, for which it is necessary to make holes in the ceiling.
Upon completion of the installation of the wooden ceiling, it is recommended to treat the entire surface with special compounds that give a matt shade to the wood and protect it from damage from fungi and weevils.
Wooden ceiling in the bath
How to make a ceiling in a bath of wood, not every home master knows, so before you go to buy material for these purposes, you should study this section in detail.
For the organization of a ceiling overlap in a room with high humidity it is not recommended to use softwood. When heated, this board emits a large amount of aromatic resins, which, under certain conditions, can ignite spontaneously. The ability of the tree to change the volume when wetting should also be taken into account when plating the ceiling with boards.
The tree is much more strongly exposed to rotting at high humidity, so when the ceiling board in the bath is selected, it must be properly processed and installed.
In a bath can be installed a ceiling from a unedged board. In this case, the financial costs of acquiring the material will be significantly reduced, but the c
onsumption of the antiseptic that will be used to apply to the untreated wooden surface will be significantly increased due to the greater roughness of such material. If you use planed boards, you can also significantly reduce costs. You can cut unedged wood yourself, for this purpose you can use special machines or use the "Bulgarian".
Regardless of the type of lumber used, the ceiling must be reliably insulated and waterproofed from the surface of the cold attic. In this case, the probability of condensate formation from the back of the wood will be minimized. A liquid for wood is always undesirable, but if the surface of the board can be dried from the outside, the moisture formed on the inside will have a destructive effect for a long time.
It is necessary to know how to properly install the vapor barrier layer, and also to equip the ceiling insulation with all the rules. Of the modern materials used for heat and waterproofing of damp premises, foil vapor barriers and stone wool are used. Glass wool for insulation is of little use due to high hygroscopicity. In order to reliably protect the wooden ceiling from moisture penetration from the outside, as well as from the leakage of moisture from the air from the steam room, it is recommended to use a double layer of waterproofing, where the external material can be ordinary white polyethylene film.
Typically, this double waterproofing is used to protect the insulation, which is located in the ceiling lath, but when the attic is insulated with bulk materials, one layer is sufficient, which is placed under the ceiling. For warming the ceiling, you can use the grandfather's method. In ancient times for a thermal insulation of a ceiling in a bath a mix from clay and straw was used.
When the insulation of the ceiling is completed, the boards are attached to the battens with the help of finishing nails. If a lining is used as a material for a bath ceiling, the fastening is carried out in the manner described above.
Wooden ceiling in the attic
For the installation of a mansard wooden ceiling, the use of lining is most preferable. Given the complex geometry of the room, the use of this material can significantly reduce labor costs. In the attic you need to make quality insulation and waterproofing.
As a heater apply tiled mineral heaters, which are installed in pre-prepared profiles from the boards. Thermally insulating material on both sides is subject to reliable waterproofing to prevent the possibility of humid air entering the room. The board is mounted on the lathing with the help of bracket-clayers. If other lumber is used for finishing, then for its fixing you can use ordinary wood screws.
The ceiling made of wood materials makes the room more comfortable, but remember the high combustibility and the possibility of damaging the tree from moisture. Qualitative treatment of the material with special compounds can significantly reduce the risk of wood burning, and antimicrobial protection - minimize the likelihood of damage to wood by various microorganisms.